It’s a topic that sits differently with every applicator.
Some welcome it with a Zen-like focus that allows them to hone their craft. Others would rather chew off their arm. Results will vary, but one thing is clear. If there is one step that is the classic determinant of a successful coating job, many people will tell you it really comes down to how well you prep the surface you’re spraying. It’s no different with Moly Resin.
Over the years, questions have come up, and though infrequent problems occur. What’s interesting is that most issues come down to either a contaminant having made its way between the coating and the surface or an issue with the cleaning process that left the surface less than optimal. Either by using something like glass beads that leave the metal too smooth, or by cranking up the psi past 80 and just letting it fly!
That’s why we put so much emphasis on the things that come with building skills through repetition in the craft. It’s generally how well the preparation steps in the application manual are followed that makes or breaks your projects.
For the best results, we recommend creating a slight, uniform texture with 60-00 grit garnet or aluminum oxide. Do not use glass. They tend to polish the metal instead of creating the texture a coating needs to grip.
Pressure matters too. You should need no more than
- 40 to 50 psi for aluminum
- 60 to 80 psi for steel.
More pressure may blast faster, but it will create a rougher finish.
Special attention should be given to slick or worn areas, edges, recesses, seams, holes, and any place the blasting stream may not reach evenly.
Chrome, nickel, polished metal, and similar smooth surfaces should be lightly blasted to create texture before coating.
After blasting, remove all media dust with clean compressed air or by washing and drying the part immediately.
Then, warm it up.
Get it to temp before spraying. Preheating does more than help prevent runs and fisheyes. It also exposes oil that may still be hiding in seams, holes, or crevices. If oil begins to run out of the part as it heats, stop. The part is not ready to coat. Clean it again and repeat the preheating process until no contamination appears.
These are more than just suggestions. They’re foundational to a successful result and a durable finish. If you’re already a successful operation, these steps are likely part of your daily activities already.
When customers tell us their Moly Resin has lasted for decades on a firearm or other piece they’ve sprayed. They’re mostly seeing the result of careful preparation and execution. The coating gets the credit, but it bonds to the surface it’s provided. That’s why we spend so much time talking about preparation before we ever talk about spraying.